Lower Dess Beat- River Dee
It was the beginning of March and we were looking forward to three days fishing on the magnificent Dess Beat of the River Dee. We would be staying at the cosy Mill Cottage, which is ideally located on the banks of the river. The cottage is so close to the river that you can read the water gauge on the beat from the living room window. The cottage boasts some fantastic views across the surrounding countryside and is truly an angler’s paradise.
My wife (Sam) and I would be fishing with Silja Longhurst from Denmark. Silja needs little introduction in fly-fishing circles as she regularly competes in the World Spey Casting Championships and she also runs her own very successful guiding company in Denmark. As well as Silja, we would have Colin joining us for a couple of days and David, both well-known ghillies on the River Tay and Spey respectively.
We were quite optimistic on the journey over to Deeside. We had learned that there had already been a fresh fish caught earlier that day from the beat. The weather was set fair for the next few days and the water was dropping. We arrived at the cottage, which was located between Aboyne and Kincardine O Neil just after 8 pm. We were immediately struck by the close proximity of the cottage to the river, as it was quite literally only a stone’s throw away. We unpacked the car with great excitement and sat down to a refreshing Gin & Tonic, before enjoying a lovely meal. This was washed down with a nice bottle or two of claret! We decided to retire to bed just after midnight to get a good night’s sleep. It was so relaxing to fall asleep to the soothing sound of the River Dee in the background and the beds were so comfortable.
The breath taking view from the cottage
The following morning I was up at first light just to absorb the marvellous surroundings that we had found ourselves in. From the bedroom and living room windows, the views along the river could only be described as breath taking. Colin arrived from Perthshire just in time for breakfast. He was going to be fishing with us on the first and last day. After hearty breakfast of bacon rolls, we decided to take the twenty-five steps down to the fishing hut. After all, the cottage is located literally just above the fishing hut and so it is not far too far a walk in the morning!
The view looking downstream from the hut
At the fishing hut, we met Dess ghillie, Eoin Smith. I had fished with Eoin a number of times in the past. He has a wealth of experience and is a true asset to the beat and the anglers that fish there. Eoin is one of the longest serving ghillies on the river and his words of wisdom can often be the difference between success and failure.
Eoin explained that the water had risen overnight because of some melting snow on the hills. Fortunately, the river was running clear and was now beginning to drop. Eoin suggested that we all used sink tip lines coupled with either copper or brass tube flies around two inches in length. I decided to use a ten foot, seven inches per second sinking tip. On the business end, I opted for a two-inch-long copper Nessie C tube fly. Sam was using a similar setup, but her weapon of choice was a Gold bodied Willie Gunn copper tube. Silja and Colin would be fishing the top half of the beat, with Silja starting in the Pitslugs Pool and Colin in Rossachs while Sam and I would be fishing downstream from the fishing hut.
Just waiting for the line to tighten
We started fishing in the gorgeous Mill pool. The Mill Pool is a lovely pool, which is easily fished from the bank. It has a perfectly even flow in high water and the tail of the pool has some lovely dark patchy water dispersed with boils made by big boulders. It just screams salmon! In higher water, the fish lie close to the near bank, so distance casting is not required. Sam started fishing at the head of the pool and I tucked in just downstream from her. Overhead the sun was shining and upstream I could see the beautiful snow-capped mountains of Braemar and beyond. It was a joy just to be fishing on such a beautiful beat set in such a stunning location. Unfortunately, the downstream wind was getting stronger which was making casting difficult. We both fished down the Mill Pool but surprisingly did not get a touch. We then decided to take a walk down to the famous Jock Rae Pool which lies on a sweeping right-hand bend on the river. This is one of the most productive pools on the beat and being on a bend, we thought might offer us a bit more shelter from the ever-strengthening wind.
Jock Rae looked in great order. The pool is a dream to fish with the fly rod. It is quite fast at the head and the current runs close to the near bank. As you move down the pool, the current gets more evenly spread. Half way down the pool there are two very tantalising boils, which are formed by huge boulders. Eoin had explained in the past that the outer most boil was one of the most productive lies on the beat. Both Sam and I fished down the pool. They fly was coming around beautifully and at just the perfect speed. I was just waiting for the line to tighten but unfortunately this did not happen.
It was now around midday and the beat was looking magnificent in the early spring sunshine. It was surprisingly warm for March and it felt as if spring was in the air. Colin had fished down to the Jock Rae Pool but had fared no better. He did however see two fresh fish, which was encouraging. We decided to go back to the cottage and prepare lunch while Colin fished the Jock Rae Pool.
Silja had also seen fish at the top of the beat. The water was dropping and prospects for the afternoon looked promising. It was great to hear Eoin describing the huge catches of spring salmon from the River Dee in years gone by over lunch. He recalled wonderful tales of having to break the ice, which had formed on the water on a regular basis in early spring when he first started ghilling, so that the anglers could cast a line. After enjoying a good lunch and a wee dram, we are all gently persuaded by Eoin to have a cast. Sam and I would be fishing the top half of the beat while Colin and Silja fished downstream from the cottage. The water had now dropped almost three inches and was looking in great condition. Eoin showed us the Pitslugs Pool, which was where we were going to start after lunch. Pitslugs is another lovely pool on the beat. The top half of the pool is quite fast flowing with the current running down the near bank. A long cast is not required as the fish usually lie close to the bank. As you move towards the tail of the pool the current decreases, which makes it an ideal resting point for that elusive springer. Both Sam and I fished the pool twice. I saw a fresh fish as well as several kelts while fishing. Unfortunately, the fished seemed to be playing hard to get.
Rossachs looking very inviting
We then walked downstream to fish the famous Rossachs Pool. Rossachs is a magnificent salmon pool. It is deep and has a lovely flow down the entire length of the pool. There are a number of outcrops formed by the bank and the fish seem to lie around these. The pool is so big that it would probably take an hour to fish properly. My wife watched as I thrashed the water to a foam. I then saw the one of the biggest fish I have seen in recent times trying to unsuccessfully launch itself from the water, just off the second point. I regularly fish the River Tay and am use to seeing big fish, but this looked massive and very fresh at around the thirty-pound mark. It was so big that by the time my line had straightened and I was about to cast again, Sam had grabbed her rod and was fishing behind me! It is amazing what the sight of a big salmon can do to a crazed angler!
We both covered the pool to the best of our ability to no avail. It was now just after five and so we met back at the hut. Sam and Silja had finished fishing for the day but Colin and I decided to fish on for another hour. The big fish in Rossachs drew us back there like a magnet. Within fifteen minutes of fishing, Colin had a very good pull. The line was ripped from his hand savagely but then everything went slack. It was adjacent to where the big fish had shown. We both fished until twilight but failed to generate any response.
After a quick coffee, Colin headed back to Perthshire. He was due to come back on Saturday. Karl a very good friend of ours and a ghillie on the Invery Beat was joining us for dinner at the cottage. It was a great to see Karl again and his stories and some of the old pictures he had brought with him were fascinating. We all enjoyed some rather moreish red wine and homemade beef stew
The following morning, the river had dropped by three inches and was now running at one foot ten. David (a ghillie on the River Spey) and his wife Mhairi would be joining us for the day. We all enjoyed a lovely breakfast of bacon rolls and fresh croissants and were then ready to tackle the day ahead. Eoin appeared to be much more optimistic as the water had dropped once again. Sam, Silja and I would be fishing the top half of the beat in the morning, while David would fish downstream from the cottage.
Sam and I fished Pitslugs. I saw two fresh fish in Pitslugs but could not get them to show any interest in my fly. We then went to fish Rossachs for the remainder of the morning. As the water had dropped it fished even better. I was just waiting for my line to tighten, which did not happen, but my Sam’s did. She shouted to me and as I looked up, I could her see her rod bent for a few seconds just downstream from the second point and then suddenly her line went slack and then nothing. Unfortunately, that was another opportunity gone. At lunch, it was good to hear that everyone had seen fresh fish during the morning and now the river was at a perfect height.
Probably one of the most beautiful lunch spots in the world
As the water was now lower, I decided to use the same line but with a plastic tube fly to allow for more movement. Sam and I were going to fish the lower half of the beat in the afternoon. It had become significantly milder and the sun was shining brightly down the valley. Conditions felt perfect as we made our way down to the Mill pool. David had seen two fresh fish at the tail of the pool that morning.
Sam decided to fish the bottom half of the pool while I started at the top. It felt as if spring had sprung as I fished down the pool in the warm afternoon sunshine. The fly was just swinging around at the perfect speed in the current and I was waiting for the line to tighten. I looked upstream and marvelled at my beautiful surroundings. Suddenly and without any warning, the rod nearly got ripped out of my hand by a savage take. I lifted the rod and a fish was on. I called to my wife and just at that point, the fish decided to run hard downstream. It stripped yards of line from my reel. I had to put some side strain on the fish to stop it from leaving the pool. Finally, I managed to turn its head. It then remained deep sitting close to the bottom. It felt like a good fish. By now Sam was by my side and I was in salmon fishing heaven. The fish then came towards me quickly and I had difficulty maintaining adequate tension on the line. After around ten long minutes the fish finally came to the surface. It was a lovely silver, deep River Dee springer around twelve pounds in weight. I could see the fly hanging out from it’s mouth which made me a bit nervous. Sam had now decided where she wanted to tail the fish. The fish then decided to make one final run upstream and suddenly the line went slack. The fish was gone. To say I was gutted was an understatement! This was my chance. I inspected the fly and the hooks were in perfect order. Sam tried to console me by telling a few jokes but that did not really help!
Making loops in the afternoon sunshine!
I watched Sam as she fished down the pool again reflecting on what might have been. She covered the pool well and I was expecting her to get a pull at any minute. Unfortunately, lightening did not strike twice. We then walked downstream to fish the Jock Rae Pool for the remainder of the afternoon. I started at the head of the pool with the same fly and Sam fished below me. The pool looked in lovely condition and I was again just waiting for a take. My fly was just coming over a boil which was created by a large boulder a third of the way down the pool when my line tightened once again but this time in a more gentle fashion. I lifted the rod and felt the fish come towards me very quickly. I managed to keep adequate tension on the line, as the fish remained deep and close to my bank. Thankfully, Eoin had arrived at this point with the net. The fish then took a long run towards the far bank and then came to the surface. It was very silver but extremely thin. Eoin did the honours with the net and released the six-pound kelt. I was disappointed that it was a kelt but on a positive note, I had two takes that afternoon.
We decided to call it a day and enjoy a relaxing walk back to the cottage. It was good to hear that Silja had also had a pull from a fish. With a dry weather forecast overnight, conditions were looking promising for our last day on Dess. We enjoyed a glass of wine with David and Mhairi and then they left as they were dining in Aboyne that evening before heading back to Aberlour the following day.
Silja, Sam and I enjoyed a Gin & Tonic or two and I decided to cook pasta with pesto as I thought it would take my mid-off losing the fish. It didn’t, but the large whisky after dinner certainly did!
I awoke on the final morning and peered out of the living room window at the water gauge and got a nasty shock. The river had come up five inches and was rising. There had been no overnight rain so there could only be one culprit, melting snow. This certainly diminished our chances. Colin arrived with fresh rolls and a mound of bacon and sausages from the butchers in Ballater for breakfast, which lifted our spirits significantly. After a hearty breakfast, Eoin suggested that Silja fish the lower half of the beat while Sam and I would fish upstream from the cottage. Eoin would take Colin to fish the top pool on the beat.
Pitslugs looking good with the extra water
Sam and I drove to the Pitslugs Pool, which looked in fantastic order. The extra water made the tail of the pool look very fishy. Even before we had started, we saw a fish jump. Thankfully, the water was clear, so we wasted no time and started fishing. We both fished every inch of Pitslugs but failed to generate any interest from the fish. Indeed, Sam fished the pool twice, before we made our way down to Rossachs. It was good to hear that Colin had a tug in the top pool. At least this meant that in spite of a rising water the fish were still in the mood to take a fly. We both fished Rossachs hard. I changed my fly on two occasions. On every cast, it felt that the line was going to tighten. It was now nearing lunchtime, so we decided to head back to the hut for a wee dram and something to eat.
The river had risen around for inches through the course of the morning. We all enjoyed a long lunch and to be honest I could have done with an afternoon snooze but Eoin was having none of it. He pointed Sam and I in the direction of Jock Rae. We walked down the bank in the afternoon sun. It was just lovely to be out on the river. Sam decided to watch me while I fished down the pool. I changed my fly to a tungsten tube as the water had risen. I covered every inch of the pool to no avail, as did Sam. I think with the rising water we were fighting a losing battle. Just after four, Sam decided to throw in the towel and have a hot bath, so I walked upstream to the Pitslugs Pool where Silja was fishing. She had seen several fish moving and with the extra water, the pool was looking even more inviting than ever. I changed my fly to a Temple dog cone head and started to fish behind her. I had been fishing for no more than five minutes when my line tightened. I lifted into the fish, which immediately came towards me. After one small run, it came to the surface and I could see that it was a kelt. With Silja’s help, we released the fish and continued fishing for another hour. It was now just after six so we decided to call it a day. Unfortunately, Colin had fared no better.
A final cast at twilight
That evening over dinner we reflected on what had been a fabulous three days on the magnificent Lower Dess Estate. We had not caught any fresh fish but we all had chances and that is all you can ask for in mid-March. To be honest catching a fish does not really matter when you are salmon fishing in such breath-taking surroundings. On every pool that we fished, we were just waiting for the line to tighten. What could we say about Eoin Smith? He was brilliant. He was always at hand giving us advice and trying different things. He kept us going, encouraging us throughout the course of the week. Above all, it was a pleasure and a privilege to fish with him.
The Dess Beat has it all. Comfortable accommodation situated literally a stone’s throw away from the river, mouth-watering pools to explore with a fly rod and a ghillie in Eoin Smith whose knowledge and expertise is second to none. All of this is set on the backdrop of such a beautiful Estate. So, next time you are looking for that special salmon fishing experience why not consider Dess? You won’t certainly be disappointed.